Portugal captured my heart through my stomach. From the bustling food markets of Lisbon to the azulejo-lined streets of Porto, every meal told a story of tradition, innovation, and pure Portuguese soul. This wasn’t just a trip—it was a culinary pilgrimage through one of Europe’s most underrated food destinations.
Over the course of ten days, we wandered through centuries-old markets, learned the secrets of Portugal’s most famous pastry from a master baker, and discovered that Portuguese cuisine is so much more than just pastéis de nata (though those are pretty spectacular too). Here’s my curated guide to the absolute best bites in Lisbon, Sintra, and Porto.
Lisbon: Where Tradition Meets Innovation
Lisbon’s food scene is a beautiful contradiction—ancient recipes served alongside cutting-edge cuisine, traditional tascas sharing streets with modern wine bars. The city’s seven hills hide countless culinary treasures, and honestly, getting deliciously lost is half the fun.
Must-Try Experiences in Lisbon
Pastéis de Belém Let’s start with the obvious but essential. This is where the original pastéis de nata was born in 1837, and the recipe remains a closely guarded secret. Yes, there’s always a line, but trust me—these custard tarts are in a league of their own. The pastry is impossibly crisp, the custard silky and still warm, with that perfect caramelized top. Pro tip: sprinkle with cinnamon and powdered sugar, and eat them immediately.
Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market) This isn’t just a market—it’s Lisbon’s food hall done right. Local vendors share space with some of the city’s best chefs, creating a democratic dining experience. Don’t miss Henrique Sá Pessoa’s mini outpost for elevated Portuguese flavors, or grab a bifana (Portuguese pork sandwich) from one of the traditional stalls.
Taberna do Real Fado Hidden in the Alfama district, this tiny tavern serves some of the most authentic Portuguese comfort food in the city. The grilled sardines are transcendent—smoky, salty, and served with roasted peppers and cornbread. The caldo verde (kale soup) here is liquid poetry, and the staff treats you like family.
Pharmacia For a modern twist on Portuguese classics, this trendy spot in Príncipe Real reimagines traditional dishes with contemporary flair. Their duck rice is a revelation—creamy, rich, and utterly addictive. The cocktail program is equally impressive, featuring Portuguese spirits and local ingredients.
A Vida Portuguesa While not a restaurant, this beautiful store showcases the best Portuguese artisanal products. Stock up on premium olive oils, aged vinegars, and those gorgeous tin cans of sardines that make perfect souvenirs (or midnight snacks).
The Lisbon Food Experience
Eating in Lisbon is about embracing the Portuguese concept of “saudade”—a bittersweet longing that somehow makes every meal more meaningful. Whether you’re sharing petiscos (Portuguese tapas) over wine, or standing at a corner tasca with a coffee and a pastel, food here is deeply social and wonderfully unhurried.
Sintra: Fairy Tale Flavors
Just a short train ride from Lisbon, Sintra feels like stepping into a fairy tale—and the food matches the magical atmosphere. This UNESCO World Heritage town serves up traditional sweets that have delighted visitors for centuries.
Must-Try Experiences in Sintra
Piriquita This legendary bakery has been serving Sintra’s most famous sweets since 1862. The travesseiros (pillow pastries) are absolutely divine—crisp puff pastry filled with almond cream and dusted with powdered sugar. They’re so good that locals queue up alongside tourists. The queijadas de Sintra (cheese tarts) are equally spectacular, with their unique blend of fresh cheese, sugar, and eggs creating something that’s both familiar and completely unique.
Tulhas For a proper meal, this cozy restaurant serves refined Portuguese cuisine in a setting that feels like dining in someone’s elegant home. Their cataplana (seafood stew) is outstanding, and the wine list showcases some of Portugal’s best bottles. The atmosphere is intimate and romantic—perfect after a day exploring palaces.
Casa Piriquita II The newer location of the famous bakery, but with the same commitment to traditional recipes. Less crowded than the original, making it perfect for a quiet coffee break between palace visits.
The Sintra Sweet Tradition
Sintra’s confectionery tradition dates back to the convents and monasteries that once dotted the region. These sweets weren’t just desserts—they were offerings, celebrations, and edible art. Eating them today connects you to centuries of Portuguese culinary heritage.
Porto: The Soul of Portuguese Cuisine
Porto stole my heart completely. This city wears its culinary traditions proudly while embracing innovation with open arms. From the iconic francesinha sandwich to world-class port wine, Porto delivers flavors that are bold, honest, and utterly memorable.
Must-Try Experiences in Porto
Pastéis de Nata Cooking Class – A Hands-On Adventure The highlight of my Porto visit was learning to make pastéis de nata from a master baker in a traditional workshop near the Sé Cathedral. What I thought would be a simple baking class turned into a masterclass in Portuguese culinary philosophy.
Our instructor, Maria, had been making pastéis for over thirty years. With flour-dusted hands and infectious enthusiasm, she walked us through the intricate process of creating the perfect custard tart. The secret, she revealed, isn’t just in the recipe—it’s in understanding the dough, feeling the custard’s consistency, and knowing exactly when that caramelized top reaches perfection.
We started by making the laminated pastry from scratch, rolling and folding butter into the dough until it became silky and pliable. The custard filling required constant whisking and careful temperature control—too hot and it curdles, too cool and it won’t set properly. Maria taught us to listen to the custard as it cooked, watching for the subtle bubbles that signal it’s ready.
The most magical moment came when we pulled our golden pastéis from the oven. The tops were perfectly caramelized, the custard still jiggly, the pastry impossibly crisp. We ate them warm with our hands, standing in that small kitchen, and I understood why these little tarts have captivated the world. When you make something with your own hands, guided by generations of knowledge, it tastes like pure joy.
Café Majestic This Art Nouveau café is a Porto institution, serving coffee and pastries since 1921. The Belle Époque interior is stunning, but the real star is the food. Their pastéis de nata rival Lisbon’s best, and the afternoon tea service is an elegant experience that feels delightfully old-world.
Cantinho do Avillez José Avillez’s Porto outpost serves modern Portuguese cuisine that respects tradition while pushing boundaries. The tasting menu is a journey through Portuguese flavors, from the sea to the mountains. Every dish tells a story, and the presentation is Instagram-worthy without sacrificing substance.
Santiago Café For the ultimate francesinha experience, this unassuming café serves what many consider the city’s best version of Porto’s iconic sandwich. Layers of cured meats, sausage, and cheese are topped with a fried egg and smothered in a beer-and-tomato sauce that’s part gravy, part liquid heaven. It’s messy, indulgent, and absolutely essential.
Adega São Nicolau This traditional tasca in the Ribeira district serves honest, soul-warming Portuguese food. The grilled octopus is tender and smoky, the wine list features excellent local bottles at fair prices, and the atmosphere is convivial and authentic. It’s the kind of place where conversations flow as freely as the wine.
Graham’s Port Lodge No Porto visit is complete without a port tasting, and Graham’s offers one of the best experiences. The vintage ports are extraordinary—complex, rich, and perfectly paired with dark chocolate. The views over the Douro River provide the perfect backdrop for understanding why this fortified wine has captivated the world for centuries.
The Porto Experience
Porto’s food scene reflects the city’s character—unpretentious, generous, and deeply rooted in tradition. Meals here are social affairs, often stretching late into the evening over bottles of vinho verde and passionate conversations. The city teaches you to slow down, to savor not just the food but the entire experience of sharing a meal.
Final Thoughts: The Portuguese Way
What struck me most about Portuguese cuisine isn’t just its incredible flavors—it’s the warmth and generosity that accompanies every meal. From the patient baker teaching me to fold pastry dough to the waiter who insisted I try his favorite wine, food in Portugal is about connection, tradition, and joy.
Portuguese cuisine deserves a place at the top table of European gastronomy. It’s refined yet approachable, traditional yet innovative, and always, always delicious. Whether you’re biting into a perfect pastéis de nata in a busy Lisbon café or learning to make one yourself in a Porto kitchen, you’re not just eating—you’re participating in a culinary tradition that spans centuries.
Pack your appetite, bring your curiosity, and prepare to fall in love with one of Europe’s most delicious secrets. Portugal is waiting to feed your soul, one incredible meal at a time.
Bom apetite!
Backpacker Kitchen 
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